Monday, October 20, 2014
Portrait of the Marquis and Marchioness of Miramon and Their Children
James Tissot - 1865
Painting - oil on canvas
Musée d'Orsay - Paris (France)
This type of open-fronted, short jacket became popular in the mid-19th century. It was often called a 'Zouave' jacket after the uniform of French army regiments first raised in 1831 in Algeria and recruited from the Zouaoua (or Zwāwa), a tribe of Berbers, the indigenous ethnic groups living in North Africa. During the Crimean War (1853 – 1856) the Zoaves first fought outside of Algeria.
The jacket was part of a group of objects donated by two sisters in 1937. According to a note in the file, one of them remembered
'this worn during the sixties with a loose thin white blouse, called a Garribaldi & dark skirt, probably merino, which was a popular material then, finished with a wide lace collar, brooch and long gold watch chain.
I think the jacket may be French and date 1864-6 as Clara Pitt then journeyed to San Remo and used to return with French outfits, & French presents and gay things for small nieces and nephews.'
Clara Pitt (1824-1910) was the daughter of George Ashby Pitt (c. 1782-1832) and Ann Lonsdale (1786-1860) and presumably was the aunt of the two sisters donating the jacket.
- See more at: http://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/Online/object.aspx?objectID=object-484465&start=9&rows=1#sthash.1ExL3ECv.dpuf (Museum of London)
A black wool Zouave jacket, embroidered in chain stitch in arabeque patterns with pink silks, retailed by Peter Robinson.
The short, collarless, open fronted, Zouave jacket was fashionable between 1859 and 1865. It was inspired by the jackets worn by the French Zouave regiments who served in the Crimean War (1854-1855) and in 1859, when France, allied with Piedmont and Sardinia, fought Austria for control of northern Italy. In the battle of Magenta the Zouaves of the Imperial Guard won ten crosses of the Legion of Honour and fifty military medals. Shortly afterwards they led the assault at the battle of Solferino which broke through the Austrian lines and led to an Allied victory. The original Zouave troops came from the Kabyli tribe who lived in Algeria and Morocco.
This black wool jacket is embroidered in chain stitch with pink silks in an arabesque pattern. Other surviving examples are made in scarlet wool trimmed with braid or decorated with embroidery. The jackets were usually worn with a habit shirt or Garibaldi blouse and a skirt. This example was sold by Peter Robinson, who by 1860 had transformed his single drapery outlet into one of London's largest department stores, situated at 103-108 Oxford Street. The shop sold millinery, made-to-measure outfits and mourning clothes alongside loose-fitting, ready-made garments such as mantles and flounced silk skirts.
- See more at: http://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/Online/object.aspx?objectID=object-81104&start=8&rows=1#sthash.h7ecZLWa.dpuf (Museum of London)
(Actually, I'd kinda like one of these for SCA archery...)
A side view of a three quarter length white cotton Marcella archery jacket with pagoda sleeves, trimmed in military style with braid and covered conical buttons. Worn by Mrs. Fanny Giveen (1833-1863), the wife of Captain Xavier Giveen.
1855 AD - 1855 AD
Museum of London (via Print Division)