Sunday, December 21, 2014

Beetle-wing Embroidered Dress, made for British Markets, 1863-67

Beetle-wing Embroidered Dress

Date 1863-1867

Culture Indian Export

Description White cotton gauze, embroidered with green beetle wings, gold thread, lace trim, center front buttons to waist, full skirt, short sleeves. Embroidered in India, made for export.

Original catalog card: C. 1865, Made in India, white cotton gauze sewn with iridescent emerald green beetles with yellow thread. The dress with square neck trimmed with lace. The attached skirt gathered in the back and falling into a train with scalloped hem bound in green thread, the elbow length sleeves with shoulder ruffles, the dress with beetles as sequins, in weaving vine pattern at neck, sleeve, front of bodice and vines inset from waist at skirt to deep border at hem.

”Indian embroiderers have used the shimmering iridescent wings of tropical beetles, or elytra, widely in court dress since the Mughal dynasty (1526-1857). This work was much admired by British women living in India during the British colonization. In 1826, Fanny Parks was among the admirers of such work and noted that ’they embroider gowns for European ladies with these wings edged with gold; the effect is beautiful.’” (An Eye for Design label copy, 2003)

Material Cotton gauze/Biological material

Lexicon category 3: Personal Artifacts

Lexicon sub-category Clothing -- Outerwear

Credit line Silverman/Rodgers Collection

Antique Georgian 18k Diamond & Pearl Ring, 1820s

Antique Georgian 18k Diamond & Pearl Ring, 1820s

Details: Lovely round Georgian ring set in an etched 18k rose gold band. The ring features a round rose cut foiled diamond in the center and a circle of tiny natural pearls around the diamond. 

Origin: England, c, 1820's, hallmarked. 

Measurements: Ring is size 8.5. The face of the ring is 1/2" by 1/2" and the band is 1/4" wide.

 Metier Antiques

Antique 18k Three Turquoise Ring, 1857

Antique 18k Three Turquoise Ring, 1857

18k yellow gold Victorian turquoise ring. This rings features three bright blue cabochon turquoise stones, hammer set into a wide, tapered band. 

Turquoise has been widely used as a gemstone since Egyptian times, where it was perceived to have talismanic properties of protecting it's wearer and as a symbol of heaven on earth. It reached Europe through the Turkish trade route from Persia (now Iran). The Persian mines were known to have the most beautiful colors and quality of turquoise. Queen Victoria was very enamored with turquoise and her influence made turquoise hugely popular during her reign.

Measurements: Size 8.5. 1/4" at widest part and band tapers down to 1/8" 

Origin: Hallmarked England (crown), Birmingham (anchor), the date letter, 1857 (shield shape with an I) and 18 for 18k.

Embroidered Watch Case/Pocket

Embroidered Watch Case/Pocket

Artist/maker unknown, American

Made in United States, North and Central America

19th century

Off-white plain weave linen, silk velvet, silk and metallic embroidery, brown silk plain weave

35 7/16 x 7 11/16 inches (90 x 19.5 cm)

Curatorial Department:
Costume and Textiles

Object Location:
Currently not on view

Accession Number:

Credit Line:
Gift of Mrs. William D. Frishmuth, 1905

Philadelphia Museum of Art

Day Dress, 1864-65

Day Dress

Date: 1864–65

Culture: American

Medium: silk

Dimensions: Length at CB (b): 18 in. (45.7 cm) Length at CF (b): 18 1/2 in. (47 cm)

Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Arthur Ware, 1943

Accession Number: C.I.43.106.1a, b

Deux Amazones: Amazone en bleue; Amazone au lévier bef. 1860

Alfred de Dreux (French, 1810-1860)

Deux Amazones: Amazone en bleue; Amazone au lévier 
Two Equestriennes: One rider in blue, the other in livery (costume)

a pair, one signed ' Dreux' (lower right), the other indistinctly signed 'Alfred **' (lower left)
oil on canvas, each

38 x 27.5cm (14 15/16 x 10 13/16in). (2)

Private collection 

via Bonham's

Friday, December 19, 2014

A Christmas Invitation, 1861

A Christmas Invitation
Plate 33a from Passages from Modern English Poets Illustrated by the Junior Etching Club (1862)

Frederick Smallfield, English, 1829 - 1915. Published by Junior Etching Club, London, and Day & Son, London. Written by Thomas Hood, British, 1799 - 1845.

Geography:  Made in London, England, Europe

Date:  1861

Medium:  Etching and drypoint (second state)

Dimensions:   Plate: 4 5/16 x 3 3/4 inches (11 x 9.6 cm)

Curatorial Department:  Prints, Drawings, and Photographs

Object Location:  Currently not on view

Accession Number:  1985-52-22677

Credit Line:
The Muriel and Philip Berman Gift, acquired from the John S. Phillips bequest of 1876 to the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, with funds contributed by Muriel and Philip Berman, gifts (by exchange) of Lisa Norris Elkins, Bryant W. Langston, Samuel S. White 3rd and Vera White, with additional funds contributed by John Howard McFadden, Jr., Thomas Skelton Harrison, and the Philip H. and A.S.W. Rosenbach Foundation, 1985

Philadelphia Museum of Art